This comparison between Texas and the south of the France shouldn't really surprise you. Texas actually has many things in common with the Mediterranean regions; many things that the French embody as "terroir." Also, the Texas elements of a rich cuisine and a thriving  local  grape  growing and winemaking industry echo those of our neighbors across the Atlantic.

Missionaries initially brought grape growing and sacramental winemaking to Texas in the 16th century. In the 1930s, prohibition reduced the number of winer­ies from 23 to 1. But the 1970s saw a rebirth of the Texas commercial wine industry that has now grown to become the fifth largest wine producing state in the nation. During this fledgling time, Texas chose to develop their vineyards in much the same way most immerging wine regions start-by emulating Burgundy and Bordeaux. Wincmakers started with wines that consumers recognized and were sure to buy such as Chardonnay from Burgundy, and Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon from Bordeaux.

Throughout this "first phase" of com­mercialization, Texas winemakers savored their fait accompli by starting to produce wines that could actually compete head-to-head with well known, award-winning wines worldwide. In the short period of about 25 years, viticultural pioneers proved that the "noble" grape varietals of Europe could successfully grow in Texas.

According to Ed and Susan Auler, of Fall Creek Vineyards (Tow, Texas) and true pioneers in Texas wine, "The leg­endary California winemaker, Andre Tieschlistcheff, was our initial consultant. He insisted that we plant the Bordeaux varieties. After a subsequent trip to Mendoza in Argentina, we became bullish on Malbec, also a blending grape in Bordeaux, which we have included in our wines for the last few years."

Well, Bulverde is not Beaune and Lubbock simply ain't Lyons. Realizing this, many grape growers and wine makers are leading the charge into the "second phase" of the Texas wine revolution. Many find the comparison between Texas and the Mediterranean regions of southern France, Spain and Italy more than circumstantial and they've started to use our hot, dry Texas weather to grow the Mediterranean grapes that convert these harsh, climactic elements into luscious, grapey nectars.

About 15-plus years ago the Aulers realized this and planted their first Syrah after visiting the Rhone region of France. Unfortunately, this initial experiment was not successful due to a harsh winter freeze. But now they are part of a posse in Texas that some call "The Rhone Rangers." This term actually started in California to describe their new wave of winemakers focusing on producing  wine  from Mediterranean varietals. The term may actually have more significance in Texas due to our gun slinging past and the iconic "Texas Ranger" image.

According to Jim and Karen Johnson of Alamosa Wine Cellars (Bend, Texas), regional identity is key. Jim gives credit to Karen who says "Oregon did not get its own chapter in wine atlases trying to emulate California. They did it by figuring out what grapes grow best in their climate and then building an industry around those grapes."

Jim's plan at Alamosa includes a major focus on Mediterranean varielals. In fact, you won't even find a single Chardonnay grapeling at Alamosa. In his opinion,  "Viognier,  Tempranillo  and perhaps Syrah give Texas its best shot at getting its own wine atlas chapter. What makes these grapes special is their ability to develop flavors, color-up well and retain their acidity as they approach ripeness in our unrelenting heat."

Gary and Kathy Gilstrap at Texas Hills Vineyards (Johnson City, Texas) have taken another page from the Tex-Med Winemakers Handbook. They are focusing on using Mediterranean varietals and pro­ducing Italian-style wines. According to Gary Gilstrap, "We are banking on Pinot Grigio, Syrah and Sangiovese, and are looking at some of the other Mediterranean proven grapes for future plantings."

His focus on Mediterranean comes not only from the weather, but. is based on a premise that locally produced wines have to meld with local cuisine. Gary continued by saying, "One grape. Sangiovese, partic­ularly gives us an excellent wine to pair with Texas cuisine. It makes a wine that will hold up to acidic foods including those that use barbecue sauce, vinaigrette dressings, mustard, and tomatoes. Pinot Grigio is successful at our location and we like it served with Gulf Coast shrimp, oysters and red fish. Syrah gives us a black-pepper finish that goes well with most grilled foods."

Another visionary is Greg Bruni, winemaker at Llano Estacado Winery (Lubbock, Texas), who left a lucrative winemaking career in California to pursue the challenge, adventure and creativity that Texas terroir had to offer. Since com­ing to Lubbock, he has been working on building a Texas Rhone-style wine from the ground up.

Greg says, "When I came to Llano, we were purchasing Carignan, another red Mediterranean varietal. I was shocked to learn Carignan was only being made into blush wines! Our first Red Carignan was in 1994 and our first mass release was from the 1996 vintage. We are now using these grapes in our. Passionelle, Llano's proprietary Rhone-style blend. In addition to Carignan, Llano is also including other Rhone varieties including Syrah, Grenache, Viognier and Mourvedre. 1 am experimenting with other small batch, limited release blended wines, as well."

Greg is passionate in describing what he sees as the future of Texas winemaking. He says, "The best wines in Texas have not been made yet and when they are, they likely will be blends. The French have made wine in the Rhone valley tor the past millennium based on this concept. Just imagine what Texas wines will be like given a decade or two!" Sante, ya'll.

Dr. Russell D. Kane has traveled exten­sively and has a serious and active interest in the culinary arts, regional cuisines and wine and food pairing. In 1998, he started the Houston chapter of the Wine Society of Texas (www.winesocietyoftexas.org) and o helped build the organization to include 500 members in 9 chapters throughout Texas. He frequently judges wine competitions and has his first level certificate from the Guild of Master Sommeliers. He can be reached at rdk@winesocietyoftexas.com.

 wine & spirits

Russ’ Tex-Med Wine and Food Suggestions

Messina Hof Pinot Grigio
Light, crisp white with a lemony aroma and a hint of peach fruit flavors. Food Pairing: Raw oysters and pan sauteed flounder.

Texas Hills Pinot Grigio
Complex white with a taste of fresh pears, melon with a mild toasty finish. Food Pairing: Grilled shrimp or red snapper with lemon and parsley.

Alamosa Wine Cellars Viognier
Full-bodied white, fruity with floral notes and reminiscence of summer tree fruits. Wine Pairing: Flavorful red fish or poultry prepared with garlic and basil.

Becker Vineyards Provencal
A dry rose in the style of Tavel (France) with crisp strawberry notes. Pairing: Sipping next to the pool on a sunny afternoon.

Llano Estacado Passionelle
Light to medium body, Rhone style red wine with a spicy nose and raspberry flavors. Food Pairing: Chicken and pork with Southwestern spices or lighter lamb dishes.

Alamosa Sangiovese Risen/a
Medium body, with hints of red berries, cola and vanilla. Food Pairing: Grilled Tuscan-style meat dishes with tomatoes, basil and oregano.

Cap*Rock Reserve Toscano Rosso
An old-world style, super-Tuscan red blend with black cherry, plum, clove and cedar. Food Pairing: Steaks or venison.

Alamosa El Guapo
A Spanish-style Tempranillo blend offering hints of dark berries, coffee and a full-bodied tannic structure. Food Pairing: Grilled red meats and olive/garlic tapenade.

Llano Estacado Cabernet-Syrah
Full body fruit driven red with cassis, blackberry and peppery tones. Food Pairing: Braised lamb or game dishes with garlic and rosemary.

Texas Hills Moscato
White wine nectar of citrus and tropical fruit qualities with a great balance of sweetness and acidity
Food Pairing: Dark chocolate or fruit tarts.

These wines are available from their !; respective tasting rooms or ask for them • at Central Market and Kroger Signature Stores throughout Texas. In Houston look for them at Houston Wine Merchant and Specs Liquor Warehouse.

Photos courtesy of Fall Creek Vineyards, Lost Creek Vineyard (grapes and vineyard), Llano Estacado Winery and Alamosa Wine Cellars, respectively.